Mountains, Momos & Monks

I typically try and shy away from long posts where I go into detailing specifics of places and people because it would probably prove quite boring to people unfamiliar with these places and people.  However, I’m making a rare diversion from my typical introspective accounts of India to tell you about probably the most amazing place in the world I’ve been yet, the HIMALAYAS.  First, I went to the TajMahal and thought I could leave India happy, then I went to the Golden Temple and then knew that I could leave India happy, then I went to the Himalayas and am quite assured I’m ready to die happy. 

So let me rewind to last Friday when classes finished, every depressing presentation from rape to actual depression had been given and final papers were handed in.  Diwali was going on concurrently which is a Hindu holiday celebrated over 5 days which is known as the festival of lights.  Christmas lights covered every house and colorful paper lanterns were hung from any surface capable of supporting the weight of a paper lantern.  Pune was especially beautiful at night and had a very ‘Christmas-in-July’ look about it.  Diwali is also a holiday usually spent with family where gifts are exchanged which adds another Christmas-y aspect to this Hindu holiday.  What’s not so jolly about this holiday: firecrackers are constantly going off everywhere- the loud uncensored ones that have you ducking for cover every time they go off.  On every street outside of every house it’s impossible to escape the sound of constant explosions for five straight days. 

Despite the firecrackers ability to erode my nerves one blast at a time, on Monday morning around 4 am a car came to pick up Annelise, Jill, Joey and I to begin our travel week adventure.  First stop was to Armristar where we went to the Wagah border (border of India and Pakistan) to watch the ceremonial closing of the gate border.  This ceremony can basically be described as the 30 fun minutes of a sporting match where ever one is chanting and cheering and bonding over how much you love your team.  Instead of teams, however, this is nationalistic pride at its absolute finest.  Soldiers from both Pakistan and India come out to display their countries worth by exhibiting who can kick their legs the highest and pound their chests the hardest on their given side of the border.  This ceremony is performed every day at sunset and every day is an absolute celebration.  Music was blasting, people were dancing, and everyone was completely glowing in ecstatic pride to belong to their given nation.   

After the Wagah border we traveled to the Golden Temple, the mecca of Sikhs worldwide.  In a reaction similar to the Taj Mahal, my jaw absolutely hit the floor.  This floating palace is constructed entirely out of gold and lit up in the nighttime looks like glowing treasure floating on water.  Although we had to wait 30 minutes to enter inside, the interior of the building was just as magical and intricately designed as the outside.  The inside was filled with beautiful fabrics and music and alters that could take days to take it all in.  The steady and overwhelming amount of people crammed together, however, gives you reason to take it all in before getting run over by the crowd

                After Armristar we traveled to Dharamashala, i.e. my new favorite place in the entire world.  Dharamashala can basically be described as a little Tibet.  After China forced control over Tibet and exiled the Dalai Lama, this northern area of India has become a refuge for both Tibeten culture as well as the Dalai Lama temple.  Unlike Pune where it’s typical to be drenched with sweat the minute walking out the door, the cool air of Dharamashala reminded us that seasons do exist along with the simple yet complex comfort that comes from snuggling in a big sweater with a glass of hot chocolate (glass seems to be the preferred method of consuming  hot drinks..) Dharamashala is a little hippy town situated at the base of the Himalayas and is absolutely surrounded by nature.  There are countless cute little cafes, shops carrying handcrafted jewelry and art as well as innumerable monks strolling about town. 

                Our first night in Dharamashala, however, proved that we were by no means packed properly to trek the Himalayan heights.  Off of unquestioned advice, the four of us packed not much more than a sweatshirt and a pair of sneakers for the trek.  Realizing that we were already freezing before even starting the trek, we headed to the nearest store to stock up on wool coats and gear to reasonably sustain us through our hike.  The first day of our trek was to the Triund, the first base camp where we pitched for the night.  All was going well until the thunder started.  We tried to reassure ourselves that it was all taking place way below us and would never reach us, until the hail and 50 mph winds did.  I don’t think any of us got any sleep that night for fear that the tent would blow over at any moment.

                Although cold and groggy from a rough night, it was worth it in the morning to look out at the snow covered caps of the Himalayas.  Our trek for that day was delayed due to weather conditions but we made due snuggling together in our tent catching up on long lost reading and sleep.  We were able to manage a 3 hour hike until clouds rolled in again.  Winds were blowing stronger, hail size was bigger, and lightning strikes were getting closer and closer to our tent post.  Luckily, our trail guide had a cabin off of our site which we had to resort to in fear of being snowed in in our tents.  We were all grateful to have this option, but still dreading what the morning held when we would have to make it down the snow and ice covered mountain, which was a comical site in itself.

                I feel sorry for any person who saw us on the last day of a trek where saying we looked a little worn is quite the understatement.  I had resorted to cameo leggings, a tie-dye lined wool coat, Rasta colored hat and gloves, and reindeer themed wool socks- and no form of shower or hygienic maintenance for the past 3 days.  The worst part of this whole outfit, however, was the court sneakers I brought along which provided about as much support down the mountain as a pair of ice skates.  I could barely take 5 steps without slipping face first into the snow, resulting in the tour guide taking me by the hand to guide me down the mountain, one fall at a time. 

                Slowly but surely, however, we made it down back.  It was kind of a time warp walking down as the further we went the warmer it became, seeming as if the seasons were changing right before our eyes.  My legs felt like jell-o walking back to our hotel and every step felt like a humiliating challenge but the accomplishment felt amazing.  The only thing that would have been amazing after 3 days trekking through snow would be to come back to a hot shower.  Seeing, however, as this is India where things are prone to go wrong, the heater was of course not working.  Although some rest and relaxation seemed necessary after the trip, we didn’t want to lose our last days in Dharamashala so we head back into town for further shopping, sight-seeing, and momo eating.

                Fast-forward 18 hours of planes and car rides later back to the home base, Pune, India.  It’s a little hotter here, stray dogs aren’t as friendly and you’re still risking your life every time you attempt to cross the street but it’s my little niche in the world for now.  My internship at the National Institute of Naturopathy has begun and although I’m still trying to figure out exactly what I’m supposed to be doing, I’m enjoying the insight into Naturopathy along with free yoga classes :) Okay, I’m pretty sure I’m breaking some unwritten blog rules considering how much I’ve already written so my riveting explanation of Naturopathic Medicine will have to wait until another post.  

Namaste,
Kate

(Sorry, I don't know why photos won't upload, I'll try wrestling with Internet connection again tomorrow)